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Considering to get one:
https://ortur.net/products/ortur-laser- ... er-machine

The 300 colour burn on stainless is pretty cool.
Probably could make some money.

Frederick_Law wrote: ↑Tue Jul 25, 2023 3:17 pm Considering to get one:
https://ortur.net/products/ortur-laser- ... er-machine

The 300 colour burn on stainless is pretty cool.
Probably could make some money.

I bought an Ortur LM2 before they made the LM2 Pro. It is a great little machine. Lightburn is great software to control the laser and they are very receptive to suggestions for improvement, something that SWX used to be. (Sorry, NOT sorry about that little dig.)

If you have the money, this looks like a great machine. HOWEVER, it currently does not have a Z-height adjustment option. WOW! Out of all those things and it doesn't have that! Focus is paramount with these lasers, and without an easy means to adjust the height then you are asking for a lot of extra work. I bought my LM2 before learning about a Z-Height adjuster and, being the good engineer that I am, I made my own. I cannot imagine using the laser without it.

If it were me I'd pester them about the Z-Height adjuster and hold off until they provide a solution. In the meantime do a lot of research, ESPECIALLY on marking any metal, particularly stainless.

I recently finished this project. It is an antique 20" x 45" mirror that I burned the silvering off the back and then painted. I had to reposition the laser about eight times to burn it all and there are some alignment techniques with that that Lightburn handles very nicely. There are a lot of tricks and techniques involved with these lasers. One handy trick I learned is to wipe light colored bare wood with a solution of Borax and water and let it dry before burning. There are many other techniques from a very helpful user community.
https://www.facebook.com/OrturTech?ref=pages_you_manage
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2280530845526177
There are many others and a lot of great YT sources as well.

It is fun, but the burn time is only a fraction of the time you'll spend on any project. It is very similar to setting up to machine something; the design, programming, and setup/fixturing is easily underestimated.

Enjoy!

V3 has a level to adjust focus.
But this is free with the V3 on Amazon:


I also want this:


Total within CAD 2k.
$400 off the V3 now.


I can make Stainless tube looks like titanium exhaust tip.
This should paid off the laser fast LOL

This is what I want to do with the laser on stainless: If it works as advertised.

Got it: Assembled last night. Need to find a place to put it and test.

Frederick_Law wrote: ↑Mon Jul 31, 2023 8:58 am Got it:
PXL_20230731_002004284.jpg

Assembled last night. Need to find a place to put it and test.

That was fast! It must have some form of vertical adjustment. Please elaborate after you figure it out.

Amazon, order Sat and arrive Sun

I got the additional vertical adjustment which didn't come with instruction. So didn't put it in. It'll allow more vertical travel.

Stock setup is about an inch travel. Just slide and screw to lock.

The frame was designed for smaller laser. The fixed stop on the frame will cause the 20W to hit the frame.
The vertical addon will reduce Y travel. Nothing a 3D printer can't fix.

Lots of smoke. Need enclosure and air filter.

Fix a broken knob and engrave on steel.
1.75" SQ 1.5 hr to engrave. 201 Stainless heat tint testing, number is mm/s.
100% power, 0.1mm pitch horizontal lines. Need to find red and green.
At 60 mm/s and above, the head can't speed up and change direction fast enough.

Frederick_Law wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 11:28 am Fix a broken knob and engrave on steel.
1.75" SQ 1.5 hr to engrave.
PXL_20230807_050305639.jpg

201 Stainless heat tint testing, number is mm/s.
100% power, 0.1mm pitch horizontal lines.
PXL_20230808_123642125.jpg
PXL_20230808_123615320.jpg

Need to find red and green.
At 60 mm/s and above, the head can't speed up and change direction fast enough.

Didn't this grid test vary the power?

No, 100% power and 0.1mm pitch, 1 pass for all.
Vary feed rate 1 mm/s to 10, 20 to 110, 11 to 19.

I'll try 0.1mm/s to 0.9mm/s.
Maybe finer pitch, 0.05mm.
Also try 2 pass or more.

Frederick_Law wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2023 12:29 pm No, 100% power and 0.1mm pitch, 1 pass for all.
Vary feed rate 1 mm/s to 10, 20 to 110, 11 to 19.

I'll try 0.1mm/s to 0.9mm/s.
Maybe finer pitch, 0.05mm.
Also try 2 pass or more.

I am eager to see what can do with this laser!

I see burn test grids that vary the power in the rows and the speed in the columns. Granted, my laser is lower power than yours, but the technique still applies. Most of the information I see recommends burning at well under 100% power to prolong the life of the laser. A little slower speed is a small price to pay.

Are you using Lightburn?
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/m ... -scale/436

Yes, I have Lightburn.
I have no problem engraving and cutting wood. Well maybe too much power. Black engraving cut through the wood.
Somehow it's easier to engrave on stainless then mild steel. Maybe the mild steel is too thick.
I'll reduce max power to 80% and try again.

Thanks for the file. Learn better way to make a grid. First run was 300 mm/s to 25 mm/s.
Power 80% max from 100% to 10%
Bottom 3 run was nothing. 100 mm/s at 100%(80) got a bit burn mark.
So I changed bottom 3 to 20, 15, 10 mm/s.

Colour change start at 50mm/s 50%(40).
I'll rework the grid to start at 50 mm/s and power from 50-100%.

People were asking manufacturer how to get colour on 316. The answer was: "watch the video, setting is there".
And their setting was 300 mm/s 80% max power.
Sounds like they just run a gray scale line fill.

Gray scale and speed test, 0 to 234 step 2, bidirection.
Power 80-40% 3 speed, 20 10 5mm/s Cut a wood ring to fix a knob and engrave on mild steel: Want to do:
Wood coaster: Earth, Atlantis, Pegasus Star gates
Engrave some blue dragons